Now that the weather is finally a little cooler, I am taking longer walks again. One of my favorite walks takes me over Rome’s oldest bridge and across the river. Trastevere is one of Rome’s most beguiling neighborhoods. It’s got cobblestones and ivy-draped ochre buildings, ancient churches, and historic cafes. It also has overrated restaurants and shops that sell mass-produced plastic magnets and racy aprons with a suggestively cropped image of Michelangelo’s David and loud study abroad students.
Use this guide to explore some of Trastevere’s quieter corners. Some of these suggestions are churches that have something special to discover and some are just interesting spaces. For more places I love in Trastevere, bookmark my Instagram guide which is full of suggestions on where to eat, drink, and shop. (I have also added these places onto this month’s map)