We only had 2 weeks on our Sicily trip, so we decided to not try to do too much at a rushed pace. We spent 4 days in Ortigia, with only 1 day trip to Noto and decided to save Ragusa and Modica for another visit. Loved just wandering around Ortigia with no particular plan, stopping at churches and museums along the way. We were there in early May, which is probably the latest I would go to avoid the heat. The archaeological park across the bridge in Siracusa was great, but I wouldn't want to do it in the heat of summer. One thing that we especially liked in Noto were the free guided tours in the churches--very interesting and informative, despite my limited Italian.
We were in these towns in early summer, but like so many other places one only has to take a few steps off the main tourist route to find sites of charming interest. Agree with the praise for the cuisine of Scicli - we visited St John the Evangelist church then loved a canal-side meal at My Name is Tannino. Looking forward to going back again this year on our own Commissario Montalbano pilgrimage…
My wife loves has always had this inexplicable desire to go wherever two seas meet! What is that about? Will definitely put this one on the list next time we go to Sicily...
My husband and I are driving from Agrigento to Siracusa in April. We planned to stop along the way for lunch. I also love the southernmost points of a country! Now we have several ideas of places to stop. Thank you! We want to get into Siracusa before dark to find parking. We are staying at the Hotel Gutkowski in Ortigia. Any ideas of easy parking near the walking bridge to Ortigia?
Ahhhh I have a post on my blog from a while ago now (2015?) that is much like this one and I'm a little surprised that it's still the same. We also went off season (November) and also found Caffe Sicilia closed. The only difference was we specially went for the Montalbano scenes (lol) and, quite specifically, a visit to some winemakers like Occhipinti and Marabino. And other than Modica (for Bonajuto chocolate, swoon) and reliving Montalbano scenes, I was not blown away, especially food wise (I didn't want fine dining!). I've never been back to this part of Sicily, but I think Sicily has so much to offer and there is so much more to explore so I keep going back and visiting other parts! This is the post if you want to compare notes! https://www.emikodavies.com/the-sicily-list-part-i/
Wonderful article! Poor Mark! I've been in that situation driving near Volterra in Tuscany without Google. Happy to say Shannon and I are still happily married.
Gillian, I LOVE those Sicilian Baroque towns, especially: walking from Ragusa to Ibla, along the road that curves steeply down the hill and just as steeply back up on the other side, love the ultra-chic over-the-top cuisine at Il Duomo, love the Gelateria with the wine-flavored ice cream, love the San Giorgio church; love Modica (which you didn't mention) with its weird ideas of pre-columbian chocolate, another Baroque cathedral, and across from the cathedral the best fried fish-in-a-paper-cone I've ever had; love Noto, and so sorry Corrado Assenza's shop was closed, and especially love all the super-Baroque sculptures decorating houses and churches alike; love Scicli and the farmacia where Inspector Montalbano's tale of the almost poisoned pharmacist takes place (don't bother with the films, read the books!); love Siracusa with its very great Caravaggio and equally great market; love Marzamemi and its bottarga factory, also so glad you actually got to La Scialuma (sp?) to taste the wonderful food there. In fact, I love all of Sicily except for touristy Taormina and industrial Gela. Next time, take me with you please!
I haven't been to Sicily in so long. This really makes me want to go back. There is always something surprising in your guides and I appreciate your honesty.
Thanks for this piece, I'm intrigued. I'm looking for a place to spend the winter when I retire, but I hadn't thought of Sicily. It sounds like it could be the ticket!
We only had 2 weeks on our Sicily trip, so we decided to not try to do too much at a rushed pace. We spent 4 days in Ortigia, with only 1 day trip to Noto and decided to save Ragusa and Modica for another visit. Loved just wandering around Ortigia with no particular plan, stopping at churches and museums along the way. We were there in early May, which is probably the latest I would go to avoid the heat. The archaeological park across the bridge in Siracusa was great, but I wouldn't want to do it in the heat of summer. One thing that we especially liked in Noto were the free guided tours in the churches--very interesting and informative, despite my limited Italian.
We were in these towns in early summer, but like so many other places one only has to take a few steps off the main tourist route to find sites of charming interest. Agree with the praise for the cuisine of Scicli - we visited St John the Evangelist church then loved a canal-side meal at My Name is Tannino. Looking forward to going back again this year on our own Commissario Montalbano pilgrimage…
My wife loves has always had this inexplicable desire to go wherever two seas meet! What is that about? Will definitely put this one on the list next time we go to Sicily...
Oh I loved this one so much and so adore your honesty. The mosaics sound wonderful. And the cannolo! I can almost taste one. Yum.
My husband and I are driving from Agrigento to Siracusa in April. We planned to stop along the way for lunch. I also love the southernmost points of a country! Now we have several ideas of places to stop. Thank you! We want to get into Siracusa before dark to find parking. We are staying at the Hotel Gutkowski in Ortigia. Any ideas of easy parking near the walking bridge to Ortigia?
Ahhhh I have a post on my blog from a while ago now (2015?) that is much like this one and I'm a little surprised that it's still the same. We also went off season (November) and also found Caffe Sicilia closed. The only difference was we specially went for the Montalbano scenes (lol) and, quite specifically, a visit to some winemakers like Occhipinti and Marabino. And other than Modica (for Bonajuto chocolate, swoon) and reliving Montalbano scenes, I was not blown away, especially food wise (I didn't want fine dining!). I've never been back to this part of Sicily, but I think Sicily has so much to offer and there is so much more to explore so I keep going back and visiting other parts! This is the post if you want to compare notes! https://www.emikodavies.com/the-sicily-list-part-i/
thank you for this article.
Wonderful article! Poor Mark! I've been in that situation driving near Volterra in Tuscany without Google. Happy to say Shannon and I are still happily married.
This is such good *honest* info! Sometimes sleepy towns in the off season are simply that: sleepy. Too sleepy to feel ready for any visitors.
You mention the intl license: same goes for European drivers license holders?!
Gillian, I LOVE those Sicilian Baroque towns, especially: walking from Ragusa to Ibla, along the road that curves steeply down the hill and just as steeply back up on the other side, love the ultra-chic over-the-top cuisine at Il Duomo, love the Gelateria with the wine-flavored ice cream, love the San Giorgio church; love Modica (which you didn't mention) with its weird ideas of pre-columbian chocolate, another Baroque cathedral, and across from the cathedral the best fried fish-in-a-paper-cone I've ever had; love Noto, and so sorry Corrado Assenza's shop was closed, and especially love all the super-Baroque sculptures decorating houses and churches alike; love Scicli and the farmacia where Inspector Montalbano's tale of the almost poisoned pharmacist takes place (don't bother with the films, read the books!); love Siracusa with its very great Caravaggio and equally great market; love Marzamemi and its bottarga factory, also so glad you actually got to La Scialuma (sp?) to taste the wonderful food there. In fact, I love all of Sicily except for touristy Taormina and industrial Gela. Next time, take me with you please!
I haven't been to Sicily in so long. This really makes me want to go back. There is always something surprising in your guides and I appreciate your honesty.
Great post. I love Commissario Monteabano! Loved getting the location details.
Thanks for this piece, I'm intrigued. I'm looking for a place to spend the winter when I retire, but I hadn't thought of Sicily. It sounds like it could be the ticket!
Hope mosaics may mean Piazza A! Regards, NBH
So you are in Catania. Is Piazza Armerina next or forgotten?! NBH