We were in these towns in early summer, but like so many other places one only has to take a few steps off the main tourist route to find sites of charming interest. Agree with the praise for the cuisine of Scicli - we visited St John the Evangelist church then loved a canal-side meal at My Name is Tannino. Looking forward to going back again this year on our own Commissario Montalbano pilgrimage…
My wife loves has always had this inexplicable desire to go wherever two seas meet! What is that about? Will definitely put this one on the list next time we go to Sicily...
My husband and I are driving from Agrigento to Siracusa in April. We planned to stop along the way for lunch. I also love the southernmost points of a country! Now we have several ideas of places to stop. Thank you! We want to get into Siracusa before dark to find parking. We are staying at the Hotel Gutkowski in Ortigia. Any ideas of easy parking near the walking bridge to Ortigia?
There is a garage across the street from the hotel. We parked there, but the machines were not working and we still got a ticket. It was easy to pay at the tabacchi and cost the same as the garage down the street (Garage Ortigia - Parking) where we parked the 2nd day.
Ahhhh I have a post on my blog from a while ago now (2015?) that is much like this one and I'm a little surprised that it's still the same. We also went off season (November) and also found Caffe Sicilia closed. The only difference was we specially went for the Montalbano scenes (lol) and, quite specifically, a visit to some winemakers like Occhipinti and Marabino. And other than Modica (for Bonajuto chocolate, swoon) and reliving Montalbano scenes, I was not blown away, especially food wise (I didn't want fine dining!). I've never been back to this part of Sicily, but I think Sicily has so much to offer and there is so much more to explore so I keep going back and visiting other parts! This is the post if you want to compare notes! https://www.emikodavies.com/the-sicily-list-part-i/
A visit to the Ochipiniti vineyard was one of the wedding activities! Sicily really wowed me this trip (aside from Rugusa 😉.) I hope to go back and do more exploring next winter. Thanks for sharing your post.
Wonderful article! Poor Mark! I've been in that situation driving near Volterra in Tuscany without Google. Happy to say Shannon and I are still happily married.
Thank you! His backing down a long steep narrow street skills are impressive. If only that counted towards the Italian driving exam he is about to take.
Good question about international drivers license holders. I don't know but my guess is you don't need it because you have an actual EU recognized license.
Gillian, I LOVE those Sicilian Baroque towns, especially: walking from Ragusa to Ibla, along the road that curves steeply down the hill and just as steeply back up on the other side, love the ultra-chic over-the-top cuisine at Il Duomo, love the Gelateria with the wine-flavored ice cream, love the San Giorgio church; love Modica (which you didn't mention) with its weird ideas of pre-columbian chocolate, another Baroque cathedral, and across from the cathedral the best fried fish-in-a-paper-cone I've ever had; love Noto, and so sorry Corrado Assenza's shop was closed, and especially love all the super-Baroque sculptures decorating houses and churches alike; love Scicli and the farmacia where Inspector Montalbano's tale of the almost poisoned pharmacist takes place (don't bother with the films, read the books!); love Siracusa with its very great Caravaggio and equally great market; love Marzamemi and its bottarga factory, also so glad you actually got to La Scialuma (sp?) to taste the wonderful food there. In fact, I love all of Sicily except for touristy Taormina and industrial Gela. Next time, take me with you please!
We ran out of time to go to Modica this trip. We did get lots of Modica chocolate as a wedding favor! We stopped in Gela once to get gas once years ago and we STILL have a family joke about it being the most beautiful town in Sicily. Poor Gela. I have been to Taormina twice and like you, in no hurry to go again (though that auditorium really is spectacular)
I haven't been to Sicily in so long. This really makes me want to go back. There is always something surprising in your guides and I appreciate your honesty.
We only had 2 weeks on our Sicily trip, so we decided to not try to do too much at a rushed pace. We spent 4 days in Ortigia, with only 1 day trip to Noto and decided to save Ragusa and Modica for another visit. Loved just wandering around Ortigia with no particular plan, stopping at churches and museums along the way. We were there in early May, which is probably the latest I would go to avoid the heat. The archaeological park across the bridge in Siracusa was great, but I wouldn't want to do it in the heat of summer. One thing that we especially liked in Noto were the free guided tours in the churches--very interesting and informative, despite my limited Italian.
Isn’t Ortigia just so charming! I have been twice in the last few months & there is so much still to see.
The summer heat is serious. I was asking for advice from a pal that had done a similar trip in July & every answer was “it was almost 40+ degrees. I don’t remember anything”
Thanks for this piece, I'm intrigued. I'm looking for a place to spend the winter when I retire, but I hadn't thought of Sicily. It sounds like it could be the ticket!
Oh ciaoooo! I have also done the accidental Montalbano tour!! Happy to meet a fellow fan 😍
I really do need to read the books and watch the shows now!
Siiiiiiiiiii!!!!
We were in these towns in early summer, but like so many other places one only has to take a few steps off the main tourist route to find sites of charming interest. Agree with the praise for the cuisine of Scicli - we visited St John the Evangelist church then loved a canal-side meal at My Name is Tannino. Looking forward to going back again this year on our own Commissario Montalbano pilgrimage…
I would love to spend more time in Scicli. I have added your restaurant recommendation to my list.
My wife loves has always had this inexplicable desire to go wherever two seas meet! What is that about? Will definitely put this one on the list next time we go to Sicily...
Oh I loved this one so much and so adore your honesty. The mosaics sound wonderful. And the cannolo! I can almost taste one. Yum.
Thank you!
My husband and I are driving from Agrigento to Siracusa in April. We planned to stop along the way for lunch. I also love the southernmost points of a country! Now we have several ideas of places to stop. Thank you! We want to get into Siracusa before dark to find parking. We are staying at the Hotel Gutkowski in Ortigia. Any ideas of easy parking near the walking bridge to Ortigia?
There is a garage across the street from the hotel. We parked there, but the machines were not working and we still got a ticket. It was easy to pay at the tabacchi and cost the same as the garage down the street (Garage Ortigia - Parking) where we parked the 2nd day.
Ahhhh I have a post on my blog from a while ago now (2015?) that is much like this one and I'm a little surprised that it's still the same. We also went off season (November) and also found Caffe Sicilia closed. The only difference was we specially went for the Montalbano scenes (lol) and, quite specifically, a visit to some winemakers like Occhipinti and Marabino. And other than Modica (for Bonajuto chocolate, swoon) and reliving Montalbano scenes, I was not blown away, especially food wise (I didn't want fine dining!). I've never been back to this part of Sicily, but I think Sicily has so much to offer and there is so much more to explore so I keep going back and visiting other parts! This is the post if you want to compare notes! https://www.emikodavies.com/the-sicily-list-part-i/
A visit to the Ochipiniti vineyard was one of the wedding activities! Sicily really wowed me this trip (aside from Rugusa 😉.) I hope to go back and do more exploring next winter. Thanks for sharing your post.
I keep going back to central Sicily but next visit I really want to go to Salina!
Salina is a magical place. I really want to go to Alicudi & climb Stromboli
thank you for this article.
Thank you for reading!
Wonderful article! Poor Mark! I've been in that situation driving near Volterra in Tuscany without Google. Happy to say Shannon and I are still happily married.
Thank you! His backing down a long steep narrow street skills are impressive. If only that counted towards the Italian driving exam he is about to take.
This is such good *honest* info! Sometimes sleepy towns in the off season are simply that: sleepy. Too sleepy to feel ready for any visitors.
You mention the intl license: same goes for European drivers license holders?!
Good question about international drivers license holders. I don't know but my guess is you don't need it because you have an actual EU recognized license.
Gillian, I LOVE those Sicilian Baroque towns, especially: walking from Ragusa to Ibla, along the road that curves steeply down the hill and just as steeply back up on the other side, love the ultra-chic over-the-top cuisine at Il Duomo, love the Gelateria with the wine-flavored ice cream, love the San Giorgio church; love Modica (which you didn't mention) with its weird ideas of pre-columbian chocolate, another Baroque cathedral, and across from the cathedral the best fried fish-in-a-paper-cone I've ever had; love Noto, and so sorry Corrado Assenza's shop was closed, and especially love all the super-Baroque sculptures decorating houses and churches alike; love Scicli and the farmacia where Inspector Montalbano's tale of the almost poisoned pharmacist takes place (don't bother with the films, read the books!); love Siracusa with its very great Caravaggio and equally great market; love Marzamemi and its bottarga factory, also so glad you actually got to La Scialuma (sp?) to taste the wonderful food there. In fact, I love all of Sicily except for touristy Taormina and industrial Gela. Next time, take me with you please!
We ran out of time to go to Modica this trip. We did get lots of Modica chocolate as a wedding favor! We stopped in Gela once to get gas once years ago and we STILL have a family joke about it being the most beautiful town in Sicily. Poor Gela. I have been to Taormina twice and like you, in no hurry to go again (though that auditorium really is spectacular)
I haven't been to Sicily in so long. This really makes me want to go back. There is always something surprising in your guides and I appreciate your honesty.
These last two trips have really made me love it down there. Just wait until I tell you about Palermo!
I’m all ears. I may be headed down (for research) when I’m back in summer.
We only had 2 weeks on our Sicily trip, so we decided to not try to do too much at a rushed pace. We spent 4 days in Ortigia, with only 1 day trip to Noto and decided to save Ragusa and Modica for another visit. Loved just wandering around Ortigia with no particular plan, stopping at churches and museums along the way. We were there in early May, which is probably the latest I would go to avoid the heat. The archaeological park across the bridge in Siracusa was great, but I wouldn't want to do it in the heat of summer. One thing that we especially liked in Noto were the free guided tours in the churches--very interesting and informative, despite my limited Italian.
Isn’t Ortigia just so charming! I have been twice in the last few months & there is so much still to see.
The summer heat is serious. I was asking for advice from a pal that had done a similar trip in July & every answer was “it was almost 40+ degrees. I don’t remember anything”
Great post. I love Commissario Monteabano! Loved getting the location details.
I just started watching the show last night.
Thanks for this piece, I'm intrigued. I'm looking for a place to spend the winter when I retire, but I hadn't thought of Sicily. It sounds like it could be the ticket!
It is pretty great!
Hope mosaics may mean Piazza A! Regards, NBH
So you are in Catania. Is Piazza Armerina next or forgotten?! NBH
We only flew intro Catania but headed straight to Ortigia.
I am working on two more Sicily guides. One about mosaics and temples and one for Palermo. Stay tuned!