Gillian Knows Best guide to Murano
Where to eat, what to see & where to shop for the good glass
Murano gets a bad rap. It is one of the most famous places (Murano is actually 7 separate islands) in the Venetian lagoon (population wise, it is the second largest after Venice with 3,000 residents.) Murano is sometimes mixed up with another famous place in the lagoon. Burano is the one with the colorful houses. Murano is where the glass is made.1 The reputation of quick glass factory tours with aggressive sales pressure and crowds and bad food has some truth to it. That experience is easily avoidable. Like just about anywhere in the world all you really have to do is know where to look. Or who to ask.
Shops in Venice are filled with strands of colorful beads, rows of glasses, and sculptures that range from kitschy to absurd. A lot of what you see is not even made in Murano at all, but are really just cheap imports. My general advice is first, go to the source and second, prices reflect quality. Murano Glass is expensive. If you want a set of glasses or a lamp, it is going to be an investment. Shops can pack and ship things for you or pack them for you to hand carry. I am a newcomer when it comes to Murano knowledge. I have spent a few afternoons exploring glass factories and small shops and eating AND I also have asked some of my trusted pals for their advice.
My pal Toma Clark Haines, also known as The Antiques Diva, takes private clients into hard to access factories and exclusive shops on Murano. She shared a few of her favorite addresses with me.
Lunch at Lele’s is essential. Don’t order (ask Lele’s son - the new owner - what to eat). Hint more is more. This is not the time to diet I promise it’s worth the calories.
Next door to Lele’s is an amazing jeweler, Monica Cavaletto, - who also offers lesson in bead making so you can blow glass yourself
Of course the biggest secret in Murano is…Fornace Mian. While a lot of the factories are surviving based on tourists business, Mian works in the home interiors realm with every major couture Italian fashion house. This is the real deal.
Speaking of the real deal, Deborah Rosetto is one of my favorite people on earth. Her shop looks like a typical tourist shop but she and her father hand make all their jewelry and it’s hands down the best price in Murano. Her over the top earrings are her speciality - and at approx 30E are an incredible bargain. Buy your souvenirs here and tell them Toma sent you! Fondamenta Manin 70.
Want more tips? Book an Antiques Diva Murano Tour to get true insider track
My pal
also recommends Trattoria Busa alla Torre (aka Lele.)
This is a great guide to all of the practical details like how to get to Murano. Can’t make it to Murano this year? This is my bookclub book for January. Use up your Hyatt points and stay on Murano.