This was such a fantastic guide — thank you. Venice truly doesn’t make sense, and that’s exactly why I love it too. One of the most memorable nights of my life was getting completely lost there after sunset, just following my nose toward Piazza San Marco. We wandered into a tiny piazza where music was blasting from an upstairs window — “’O Sole Mio,” — and, slightly inebriated, we started singing along in full dramatic form.
Apparently our semi-operatic performance was either charming or tragic, because someone threw down a coin (still not sure if it was a tip or a bribe to stop), but in the end they came downstairs, fed us, poured us wine, and we ended up spending two unforgettable hours with total strangers, just laughing, talking and of course, singing!
Venice is magic like that. Confusing, yes — but full of beautiful chaos if you give it space.
Great piece, generous advice. I just wish I didn't hate the place. The crowds, the obvious corruption, the tat for sale on every corner, the horrible shops full of crappy, made-in-China tourist junk, the terrible food. Been a few times. Never again.
Thank you! I get it! Just yesterday someone said to me Venice has the worst PR. I promise there is a bewitching quiet side with artisans and good food. The mayor and the tourism minister live in the mainland and do not have our interests at heart.
Hello, we are looking forward to our first trip to Venice in March! Lots of helpful tips, thank you for that! I have a Vaporetto question: if I have a pass, I realize the first time it must be validated, but do you validate each time you use it? You also mentioned tap and go machines with a chipped credit card, is that like the London busses where you tap in but no need to tap out? Thank you!
My husband and I were in Venice for 3 days with zero plans and we also fell completely in love with the city! All we did the whole time was wonder around and get lost. One of the artists near San Marco Vaporetto stop recommended Tratorria Alla Rivetta for dinner, and it did not disappoint!
That is the perfect way to see Venice! I have always wanted to go to Alla Rivetta, I never make it that far down the Riva 😂 (I’m a Nevodi/Vecio Portal girl)
Thanks for this. On our first visit, we took the bus from the airport to Piazzale Roma and it was not a picturesque ride. However, by doing this our introduction to Venice was a leisurely vaporetto ride up the Grand Canal to the Accademia stop and I can't think of a better way to start a trip to Venice. I'll never forget it. This time we're considering the water taxi for a different experience, but I wonder if the weather on arrival might make it less attractive (let's say wet and windy or foggy versus sunny and clear)?
These are great, practical tips! They're perfect for first-timers because Venice can be a lot to process if you're not a frequent traveler. I will admit, though, I'm so bummed about the cost of the vaporetto compared to other forms of 'public transportation' throughout Italy. It's just so expensive in comparison :(
Thank you for this. I wish I had found this before I went to Venice. There were times when my instincts were correct and worked in consort with the city. And then there were times that my lack of knowledge led down frustrating process travel paths of the Venice rookie. But regardless I fell in love and I fell hard. That city is now in my blood if not soul. It is the ultimate lover of cities who gets you if one is open to understanding and are patient to feel your way through things to experience it all on the road of discovery. And I only touched one small bit of it. But Venice is on my mind all the time, every day, sometimes reappearing at random moments. I died of happiness in Venice, and again and again with every photo, remembrance and thought. It’s the perfect balance of too much and not enough, and yet it is just enough for me, in whatever the city chooses to reveal and share. I can’t stand the amount of happiness I felt, even when trying to slog through the tourist mass and feeling a bit of pity for the city. But having come from a place that depends on tourism for its very survival, I understand the having to live with it. And still I’m in love. Make no mistake, I wasn’t looking for this, I didn’t expect to feel an affinity with this place. I thought I would simply see it and be gone. But oh no. Captivated doesn’t even cover the magic it is if one opens the arteries of experience and breathes in that salt infused air, the architecture, the remaining hints of familial frescos, the smell of the days catch being turned into culinary magnificence, the grandeur of it all. Oh yeah, this ain’t no crush. So until next time Venice. In the meantime I will have to get by with reading these wonderful tips. Thank you.
This is the best, “There is no cure.” I’ll take and in all it has to over, fog and all. Your posts are wonderful reminders of what I have to look forward to next time. Working on my “Live in Venice part time” plan…
If I eat pizza in Venice (I rarely eat pizza in Venice because I lived in Rome for so long 😉) I go to Birraria La Corte in San Polo, but this is SO much closer for me. Thank you for the tip!
So much great information here. I agree about the water taxi-- whatever the price, it’s worth the experience. I’ll never forget the feeling of first catching sight of Venice as you motor in on the boat. One of the seminal experiences of a trip to Italy.
This was such a fantastic guide — thank you. Venice truly doesn’t make sense, and that’s exactly why I love it too. One of the most memorable nights of my life was getting completely lost there after sunset, just following my nose toward Piazza San Marco. We wandered into a tiny piazza where music was blasting from an upstairs window — “’O Sole Mio,” — and, slightly inebriated, we started singing along in full dramatic form.
Apparently our semi-operatic performance was either charming or tragic, because someone threw down a coin (still not sure if it was a tip or a bribe to stop), but in the end they came downstairs, fed us, poured us wine, and we ended up spending two unforgettable hours with total strangers, just laughing, talking and of course, singing!
Venice is magic like that. Confusing, yes — but full of beautiful chaos if you give it space.
Great piece, generous advice. I just wish I didn't hate the place. The crowds, the obvious corruption, the tat for sale on every corner, the horrible shops full of crappy, made-in-China tourist junk, the terrible food. Been a few times. Never again.
Thank you! I get it! Just yesterday someone said to me Venice has the worst PR. I promise there is a bewitching quiet side with artisans and good food. The mayor and the tourism minister live in the mainland and do not have our interests at heart.
Hello, we are looking forward to our first trip to Venice in March! Lots of helpful tips, thank you for that! I have a Vaporetto question: if I have a pass, I realize the first time it must be validated, but do you validate each time you use it? You also mentioned tap and go machines with a chipped credit card, is that like the London busses where you tap in but no need to tap out? Thank you!
I tap in every time. Also, some stops have barriers that require you to.
With your credit card or phone you only need to tap in, not out.
I hope that helps, it’s confusing!
It is confusing, but this helps, thank you!
My husband and I were in Venice for 3 days with zero plans and we also fell completely in love with the city! All we did the whole time was wonder around and get lost. One of the artists near San Marco Vaporetto stop recommended Tratorria Alla Rivetta for dinner, and it did not disappoint!
That is the perfect way to see Venice! I have always wanted to go to Alla Rivetta, I never make it that far down the Riva 😂 (I’m a Nevodi/Vecio Portal girl)
Thanks for this. On our first visit, we took the bus from the airport to Piazzale Roma and it was not a picturesque ride. However, by doing this our introduction to Venice was a leisurely vaporetto ride up the Grand Canal to the Accademia stop and I can't think of a better way to start a trip to Venice. I'll never forget it. This time we're considering the water taxi for a different experience, but I wonder if the weather on arrival might make it less attractive (let's say wet and windy or foggy versus sunny and clear)?
Gillian strikes again. Such insider tips to make anyone’s trip to Venice even more delightful!
🥰🙏 Thank you Lolly!!
These are great, practical tips! They're perfect for first-timers because Venice can be a lot to process if you're not a frequent traveler. I will admit, though, I'm so bummed about the cost of the vaporetto compared to other forms of 'public transportation' throughout Italy. It's just so expensive in comparison :(
Thank you! (yep, it’s expensive)
Thank you for this. I wish I had found this before I went to Venice. There were times when my instincts were correct and worked in consort with the city. And then there were times that my lack of knowledge led down frustrating process travel paths of the Venice rookie. But regardless I fell in love and I fell hard. That city is now in my blood if not soul. It is the ultimate lover of cities who gets you if one is open to understanding and are patient to feel your way through things to experience it all on the road of discovery. And I only touched one small bit of it. But Venice is on my mind all the time, every day, sometimes reappearing at random moments. I died of happiness in Venice, and again and again with every photo, remembrance and thought. It’s the perfect balance of too much and not enough, and yet it is just enough for me, in whatever the city chooses to reveal and share. I can’t stand the amount of happiness I felt, even when trying to slog through the tourist mass and feeling a bit of pity for the city. But having come from a place that depends on tourism for its very survival, I understand the having to live with it. And still I’m in love. Make no mistake, I wasn’t looking for this, I didn’t expect to feel an affinity with this place. I thought I would simply see it and be gone. But oh no. Captivated doesn’t even cover the magic it is if one opens the arteries of experience and breathes in that salt infused air, the architecture, the remaining hints of familial frescos, the smell of the days catch being turned into culinary magnificence, the grandeur of it all. Oh yeah, this ain’t no crush. So until next time Venice. In the meantime I will have to get by with reading these wonderful tips. Thank you.
I am so sorry. There is no cure. You have written so beautifully of the spell Venice can cast. She doesn’t bewitch everyone. Welcome.
This is the best, “There is no cure.” I’ll take and in all it has to over, fog and all. Your posts are wonderful reminders of what I have to look forward to next time. Working on my “Live in Venice part time” plan…
So helpful. Next time I'm splurging on a water taxi just for the experience!
It is worth every penny!
Great article Gillian
Thank you!
If you want the best pizza in Venice then visit 1000 Gourmet Pizza and l advise to book.
I have been there twice in the last two weeks.
If I eat pizza in Venice (I rarely eat pizza in Venice because I lived in Rome for so long 😉) I go to Birraria La Corte in San Polo, but this is SO much closer for me. Thank you for the tip!
So much great information here. I agree about the water taxi-- whatever the price, it’s worth the experience. I’ll never forget the feeling of first catching sight of Venice as you motor in on the boat. One of the seminal experiences of a trip to Italy.
It really is something special! Thanks for your kind words
Loads of helpful information, as usual! Thank you
🥰🙏
Honest and helpful!
🥰
Ohh this has inspired me to take my first solo post divorce trip to Venice! Which month and which hotel will be my next quest ✨
https://venicevenice.com/
That is an AMAZING hotel. Super chic & the restaurant is ace
Venice is the perfect place for that!
Going for the Biennale in May next year and have shared this with my friends. Thanks Gillian, this is GOLD
Thank you! I am looking forward to May. (though I am enjoying how quiet it is in my neighborhood right now 😉)