Underrated* Rome

Six places in Rome that I think don't get enough attention

A few months ago I was on Instagram and stopped scrolling to watch a few minutes of my pal Mountain’s Tipsy Tuesday feature. One of the questions was about underrated places in Rome. There is just so much to see here. I am always adding something to my want-to-do list. Underrated is probably the wrong word. Hidden gem is overused. Off the beaten path. Same. Whatever we decide to call them, here are some more wonderful places in Rome.

My Rome Top 10

You can use this list on a day when it is too hot or too rainy for the Colosseum or the crowds at the Vatican Museums are overwhelming. You can use it on a day when you don’t have a lot of time or if you can’t stand for long periods or walk for long distances.

Palazzo Altemps

Just one of the wonders inside the Palazzo Altemps is a captivating selection of classical sculptures that were collected by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi in the 17th century. The Ludovisi Battle sarcophagus dates back to the 3rd century and is remarkable for its fine detail depicting the Romans fighting the Ostrogoths. My favorite part is the ornately decorated Loggia with its frescoed ceiling and rows of marble statues above the, by comparison, austere Renaissance courtyard. I also love the display cases filled with colorful stripey pieces of Roman-era glass. (and where I dream about owning a pair of earrings from here) There is often a temporary show that mixes in a modern collection with the antiquities. Buy a combination ticket that is valid for a week and gives you one entry each to the Baths of Diocletian, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, and the new Museum of Rescued Art.

Museo di Scultura Antica Giovanni Barracco

In-between Piazza Navona and Campo di Fori is a 16th palazzo that is easy to walk right past. It is well worth a stop inside. It is like a mini Capitoline museum. Another plus. Entry to the Museo di Scultura Antica Giovanni Barracco is free! Giovanni Barracco was an aristocrat from Calabria and was a keen collector of ancient art and antiquities. In 1902 Barracco donated his collection of Egyptian, Assyrian, Etruscan, Cypriot, Greek, Roman, and medieval art to the City of Rome. I love the glittering 12th-century Ecclesia Romana mosaic. Underneath the museum is a 4th-century Roman house. It is also free but you need a reservation to visit.

Galleria Spada

It is free to go see the Borromini forced perspective optical illusion but buy a ticket and go upstairs to the Galleria Spada on the Piano Nobile of this Baroque palace. The collection that fills four rooms has works by Tintoretto, Artemisia Gentileschi, Guido Reni, and Bernini. Try to take a peek into the courtyard that has statue-filled niches and a frieze of Roman sea deities.

Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia

The Etruscans are a mysterious bunch. What I am most fascinated by is their aesthetic. The color palate of their painted tombs could be mistaken for an interior designer's mood board. Every single object is more than just utilitarian, it is beautiful. A broad terracotta bowl is thin and wide and looks like something you would find in a Carlo Scarpa designed space. Scissors and spoons have decorative flourishes. The museum is a 15-minute stroll from Piazza del Popolo. I have never seen more than 5 other people there.

Michelangelo’s Moses

San Pietro in Vincoli is a 5th-century minor basilica that you In the 4th century it was one of Rome's first parish churches. The Michangelo is great but while you are there keep your eyes peeled for my favorite thing in the church. When you walk in the door look to your left and find the shield of Nicholas de Cusa. He was the titular cardinal of the church from 1449 until his death in 1464. Yes, it has a big red lobster. I also really like the skeletons on the monument for Cardinal Mariano Pietro Vecchiarelli.

Galleria Sciarra

You have no doubt seen this Art Nouveau-style enclosed courtyard in your Instagram feed. The Galleria Sciarra links via Minghetti and Piazza dell'Oratorio and is my shortcut home from the shopping streets around via del Corso. It is perfect for avoiding the Fontana di Trevi crush. Look up to see the glass ceiling and then take in the terracotta and gold encaustic paintings on the walls that exalt traditional, I mean outdated, roles of women. You can always look inside, but the gates are locked shut from 10:00am-8:00pm.